I Left my Heart in A Coruña
Galicia's largest city holds many treasures for those willing to make the trek to north western Spain.
Everyone knows the famous song “I Left My Heart In San Francisco.” Well, I’d argue it would be easy to do the same in A Coruña, especially considering how many similarities it has to SF. The air is clean, the ocean is freezing cold and the wind blows hard just like in San Francisco. A Coruña has a laid back charm and slower pace than many other cities in Spain. It is prized for its pristine mariscos or shellfish and of course its famous Pulpo alla Gallega (Galician octopus). It is also here where Spain’s most emblematic dish—the Tortilla de Patatas—was created.
A woman walking up the hill in downtown A Coruña.
The drive from Madrid is about 6+ hours but it’s easy to hop on a plane and arrive in an hour and some change. Or take a nice leisurely ride on the AVE (high speed train) which just 15 days ago started service to A Coruña. This time of year (June) the weather tends to be a balmy 65 degrees but can go up into the 80s at times. With a population of less than 250,000 people it’s an incredibly walkable city. And even though the food is not as elaborated as it is in San Sebastián the materia prima (raw material) is so good that’s it hard not to eat well as long as you choose correctly.
Shortly after arrival I found Salpica - Mar en Barra, a stunning seafood and wine bar located near the trendy calle Olmos where one can find a good selection of pinxtos bars. I was impressed with the service and also how clean the partially open kitchen was. On two separate visits I ordered the Galician oysters (two types - the planas or flat, and the large, more unctuous), the berberechos (steamed cockles) and a live cigala (langoustine) a la plancha served with nothing. Delectable.
On the left is an ostra “plana” or flat, and on the right is different type which is more full-bodied and intense.
The beautiful bar at Salpica
Berberechos or cockles, simply steamed.
The live cigala (langoustine), grilled on the plancha and served with nothing.
The people in A Coruña are elegant, dress nicely and have a deep appreciation for where they come from. They are also incredibly polite and sincere in their intentions and hospitality.
Bar Victor ia with lots of lovely pinxtos.
A nice pincho de tortilla de patatas con boletus.
Tartlet de Txangurro.
Bocata de pulpo a la plancha.
I should also mention that Galicia is known for its aged beef, particularly from dairy cows. There is a limited supply of these animals, and if you are able to find good aged Galician beef (with all the yellow fat) you are in for a real treat.
Getting ready for a night out in A Coruña!
And here are a few more photos of the city, with some views of their parks, beaches and architecture.
Kind of looks like SF, right?
People do go into the water but I would not. Well, maybe if it’s really hot!
They also refer to this area as “Finisterre” as that is where they believed the world ended…
And I will leave you with this video I took in the city that so reminded me of a cold, blustery day in San Francisco. You decide for yourself! I do think this city is worth a visit and very undiscovered! Viva Galicia y A Coruña!
Cheers y saludos to everyone from A Coruña, Galicia, June 17, 2025.
CookWithJames - James